Beneath every perfect wave is a formula of wind, swell, and seafloor. But for those who chase them, the ideal ride is part science, part soul. Carson’s words reflect something surfers have long ...

Ferdinand Porsche once said, “The perfect race car crosses the finish line 1st and then crumbles into its individual parts.” What a take, right? Well, in the 90s, that’s the best they could hope for.